Returning to El Salvador: A Journey Back Home
For the first 13 years of my life, my family and I visited El Salvador every summer. Those trips were filled with excitement and anticipation. We spent weeks with my grandparents—my mom’s side in La Unión and my dad’s in San Miguel. Their towns were separated by just a small river, so it was easy to hop between them. We’d say our goodbyes to one set of grandparents, sneak off for a quick swim in the river, and then head over to the other house. It was a time filled with big markets, horseback riding, chasing down calves, and lazy days at the beach or river.
But life got busier, flight prices skyrocketed, and my grandparents began visiting us in the U.S. Over a decade passed before we went back again, but in early 2020, we finally made it happen. The excitement of returning, this time with my wife and cousins, felt like reconnecting with a part of myself that had been missing.
The Drive to San Antonio Silva and a Family Reunion
The drive from San Salvador Airport to San Antonio Silva used to take 5-6 hours, but with new roads and highways, it now only takes about 3. That was one of the first signs of how much had changed since we’d been away. Along the way, we made a quick stop and found marañón seeds (cashews), which I hadn’t seen in the wild before. Small moments like that triggered memories of my childhood summers, and it was exciting to share those experiences with my wife, who had never seen this part of my life.
When we arrived, the entire family was there to greet us. My dad had spread the word, so it felt like a mini-reunion. It was heartwarming to see our aunts, uncles, cousins, and their kids all there, waiting to catch up. One of our traditions is to bring candy from the U.S., and the kids loved it. There was something comforting about seeing them enjoy it, continuing that small tradition of sharing a bit of our American lives with our family in El Salvador.
That evening, we all gathered for Salvadoran sandwiches. My dad had asked his sisters to make them for us, and they were huge, stuffed with everything you could imagine. Sitting there with everyone, laughing and sharing stories, I realized how much I had missed this—being surrounded by family in the place that shaped so many of my childhood memories.
It wasn’t until we were getting ready for bed that I noticed the changes. Growing up, we slept in hammocks, cooled by fans, and used the old bucket system to shower. But now, there were air conditioners in the rooms and running water for toilets and showers. I hadn’t even mentioned this possibility to my wife because I assumed it would still be like it was before. The upgrades were a welcome surprise, especially for her, as she doesn’t enjoy the heat like I do. Still, part of me missed the simplicity of how things used to be.
San Miguel Market, Cemeteries, and Pupusas
The next morning, I woke up early to help my uncle drop off the calves. After we finished, we returned to my aunt’s house for breakfast. It was hands down the best meal of the entire trip—plátanos, black beans, crema, and tamales. Eating it in the old kitchen, with the same family I’d shared so many breakfasts with as a child, brought back a wave of nostalgia.
Later that day, we headed to the San Miguel market, where the vendors were as lively as ever. “¿Qué va a llevar, amor?” they’d call out (What are you going to take, love?), throwing in a few English words to get our attention. We wandered through the market, looking at the different stalls before heading to a quieter part where my uncle recommended we shop. We also bought flowers to place on the graves of our loved ones.
Visiting the cemeteries was both a heartfelt and time-consuming experience. We visited three different cemeteries, each a reminder of how much time had passed since we’d been here last. Navigating the dirt roads and searching for the tombstones took us a few hours, but it was worth it to honor our family members who had passed on.
That night, we gathered at grandma Francisca’s house for pupusas, which my aunt made on the patio. It was one of those casual, perfect evenings—just sitting together, eating, and catching up. Afterward, we headed to grandma Mariana’s house, but we didn’t stay long. Instead, we walked a few hundred feet to my cousin’s place to grab corn and play with their parrot, ending the night with laughter and the warmth of family all around us.
A Day at Lake Olomega and Driving to Alegría
The next morning, we visited Lake Olomega, a peaceful spot close to home. We rented a small boat and spent the day on the water, taking in views of Volcán Chaparrastique in the distance. My family was their usual goofy selves, and we snapped photos, joked around, and just enjoyed being together. It was a simple but meaningful day, the kind of time that reminds you of the joys of family.
Later that afternoon, we drove to Alegría in a caravan of three cars. I hadn’t driven through San Miguel’s busy streets in years, and this was my first time navigating them as an adult. The traffic was chaotic—buses, motorcycles, and cars weaving through the streets—but once we made it out of the city, the air cooled and the scenery opened up. Rolling hills and winding roads led us to Alegría, where we spent the afternoon walking through markets and exploring the town.
What made the day even more special was that our aunts, grandmas, and cousins were all with us. Being there with my wife and sharing these experiences with her made the trip feel complete. Dinner was at Finca San Rafael, a lovely restaurant where nearly 30 of us gathered for a long, joyful meal. The food took its time arriving, but none of us minded. It was one of those nights you just want to stretch out, savoring every conversation and every laugh.
After dinner, we headed to La Unión, where we spent the night, reflecting on how good it felt to be together.
A Visit to San Alejo and Saying Goodbye
Before we said our final goodbyes, we made a special trip to San Alejo. It was a smaller group this time—just my brother, cousin, a few uncles, and my grandma. This part of the trip was special to me because, as kids, we used to follow my grandma through the market, and here we were, doing it again as adults. Walking through the stalls, buying things for her, I could feel how proud she was to have us with her. The shopkeepers would ask if she had family visiting, and with a smile, she’d say, “Yes, my grandkids.” It was one of those moments that just sticks with you.
After San Alejo, we returned to San Antonio Silva to say goodbye. Leaving is always tough, especially saying goodbye to my grandmas. They’ve been such a huge part of these trips, and each time, it gets a little harder to walk away. But it’s not just the people—it’s the homes too. These houses have been a constant in my life, and seeing them change and grow with each visit is bittersweet. I always find comfort in what stays the same, even as time marches on.
From there, we headed to El Zonte, where we spent our last night at Palo Verde Beach Resort. My grandma Mariana came along, as did my uncle, who drove us. The resort was beautiful, with a pool where we spent the afternoon swimming until sunset. Afterward, we took a peaceful walk on the beach and had dinner. The food was good, though a bit overpriced, but the experience made up for it. The next morning, I woke up early for a final walk on the beach and a swim with my brother before we packed up and left for the airport.
We made one last stop at El Tunco, where we grabbed a minuta and spent our final hours in El Salvador reflecting on the trip and enjoying the ocean breeze. It was a perfect way to end our journey.
Reflecting on an Unforgettable Trip
This trip was special for so many reasons. It was the first time in over a decade that we had all gone back together, and I felt like I was truly reconnecting with my roots. It was also an opportunity to show my wife where I came from, and share the things I grew up with. Traveling with such a big group always has its challenges, but for the most part, everyone was on time (well, most of the time), and we managed to make it all work. The chaotic moments were just part of the experience.
Looking back, this was our last big family trip before the pandemic hit, and it holds a special place in my heart because of that. It was a time of joy, laughter, and connection before so much in the world changed. I can’t wait to go back again someday, this time with my daughter, Gia, so she can experience where we come from, meet her family, and make her own memories.
